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The Best of Burgundy: Pain d'Épices

The Best of Burgundy: Pain d'Épices


Author: photograph by Christopher Hirsheimer
The surprising thing about the “gingerbread” of Dijon—the second most famous gastronomic specialty of the city, after its mustard—is that many recipes for it contain no ginger at all. Anyway, the confection’s French name is pain d’épices, literally spice bread, and that’s a more accurate description. Pain d’épices was being sold in Dijon as early as 1702, and a French encyclopedia published in 1900 proclaimed that, “In France, the spice bread most renowned for its finesse is that of Dijon.” Whether ginger is added or not, Dijon’s pain d’épices, usually sold in dense loaf form,is not very sweet—but it is very satisfying as a tea bread or snack. Jean-Pierre Silva of Le Vieux Moulin in Bouilland even uses it, thinly sliced, in a kind of gingerbread feuilleté, with frozen cream spread between the layers. (For our version of pain d’épices, see recipe.)

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