Tasting Notes: Burgundian Pleasures
Author:
Colman Andrews
photograph by Christopher Hirsheimer The vintage and price information listed below may no longer be accurate. Given my often-disappointing experiences with burgundy, I decided to pose a challenge to Geri Tashjian and Al Hotchkin of Manhattan’s Burgundy Wine Company Ltd., one of the world’s great specialists in the region’s wines: I’m a guy who doesn’t always like burgundy, I said; now show me a dozen bottles that will change my mind—bottles that are not only very good but also worth their price. They can come from any corner of the region, I said, and from appellations both exalted and ordinary. All I ask is that they be good wine for the money. Tashjian and Hotchkin were kind enough to humor me, and showed up at our offices with 14 bottles of burgundy in a wide range of styles and prices. I thought nine of them were pretty convincing arguments indeed. (Prices are approximate. Wines marked NA for “not available” might still be found in some shops; prices given for these wines are what the Burgundy Wine Company sold them for when they were in stock— and when other vintages become available, prices will be higher.) 1996 MÂCON-VIRÉ, DOMAINE DES CHAZELLES, NON-FILTRÉ ($13). The first wine tasted, and a great way to start. Intense chardonnay nose, and surprisingly rich on the palate, with lots of flavor—all fruit and minerals. This is certainly one of the most attractive chardonnay-based wines in the world at this price level. 1996 MÂCON-VIRÉ, DOMAINE ANDRÉ BONHOMME, NON-FILTRÉ ($15.50). More Burgundian than the Chazelles, and not as immediately seductive, but full-flavored and reasonably complex, tasting as if it might well have come from a more prestigious appellation. 1996 SAINT-AUBIN, MURGERS DES DENTS DE CHIEN, MAISON CHAMPY ($22.50). A fat, lively, well-focused white with an immense bouquet and a large measure of elegance. Another wine that outclasses its appellation. 1992 MEURSAULT TESSON, DOMAINE ROULOT (NA/$53). A lovely nose of honey and smoke, plenty of flavor, and a rich, lingering, honeyed meursault finish. 1996 CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET, VIDE BOURSE, DOMAINE BERNARD MOREY (NA/$37). Classy and subtle, with some fruit showing but still young and restrained. Should be a dazzler in two or three years. 1992 VOLNEY, CLOS DES DUCS, DOMAINE MARQUIS D'ANGERVILLE (NA/$32). An aroma so luscious you want to fall into the wine—and a silky, opulent character in the mouth, with every element perfectly in balance. Extraordinary stuff. 1992 POMMARD, CLOS DES DES EPENEAUX, DOMAINE COMTE ARMAND (NA/$44). Ripe and stylish, with a slightly stemmy nose, plenty of tannin, and a remarkable briarlike character. A friend of mine once proposed that pommard was the most bordeauxlike of burgundies; tasting this, I know what he meant. 1989 NUITS-ST-GEORGES, AUX MURGERS, DOMAINE DE L'ARLOT (NA/$40). Soft and open, with a lot of ripe fruit in both aroma and taste. Still tannic, and sturdy in structure. Very pleasant to drink. 1989 NUITS-ST-GEORGES, AUX MURGERS, DOMAINE MÉO-CAMUZET (NA/$54). Younger and fresher on the palate than the ’89 L’Arlot, with a vivid red-fruit character, a faintly licorice-tinged finish, and gallons of charm. Wonderful drinking.
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