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The Best of Burgundy: Époisses

The Best of Burgundy: Époisses


Burgundy’s most famous cheese, and almost certainly its most distinctive, époisses is soft, politely pungent, pleasantly sharp on the palate, and a perfect foil for full-bodied red wines of the region. Made from cows’ milk in various parts of northwestern Burgundy—there is only one producer of the cheese in the pretty little town of Époisses itself, Fromagerie Berthaut—it is aged for three months by law, and traditionally has its rind rinsed two to three times a week for about a month with marc de bourgogne (the local version of grappa). A law passed earlier this year also awards recognition to a variation that is washed in chablis instead. (A related cheese, cendre d’Aisy, is cured in marc, then coated in wood ashes.) Époisses is one of only 33 French cheeses that have been granted an appellation d’origine contrôlée. The other famous cheese in this part of Burgundy is the not dissimilar (but milder) monastery-style cîteaux, which is aged two months and not marc-washed.

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